As I said in the previous blog, I am living in Viña del Mar, but the university is called the Pontifical Catholic University of Valparaiso. The two cities run into each other seamlessly but are both very different from each other. On the one hand, Valpo is a port city dating back to the 19th century. It is known for its murals and bohemian architecture, particularly up in the Cerros (Spanish for hills). Holly, Charlotte and I got to see this when we did a free walking tour of Valpo. Along the way, we got to take one of trolley bus which has been in use since the 1960’s and one of the funiculars, built in the 19th century. Valpo as has some of the best nightlife in Chile with our guide saying that one can buy a round of four pints of beer for under $1500 CLP (£1.50/$2 USD)
However, it has a lot of faded grandeur, particularly in El Plan (the flat section of the city), having once been the second biggest Pacific on the Americas Pacific coast. Many parts of Valpo whilst safe in daylight, are not safe at night. When trying to find a comparison, I often describe it as Rio de Janeiro without the beaches or a Latin American Liverpool.
On the other hand, Viña del Mar is a resort city, often being regarded as one of the best places in Chile to live, despite being more expensive than Valpo. With the bulk of the city being flat and due to the streets being numbered and gridded, Viña often feels like a coastal city in either Florida or California, Miami being a notable example. However, the layout of the city means it is a lot easier to find your bearings in comparison to the winding alleyways and pathways of Valpo. Viña also has better facilities than Valpo, with a wide variety of supermarkets, shopping malls, restaurants and banks. Transport by micro or metro is also at hand for people going to Valpo or Reñaca up the coast.
Viña’s main attraction is the beaches, which are particularly popular in the summer months when tourists from both Argentina and other parts of Chile flock to the city. Even in winter, the beaches are filled with families during the day and in the evening, Viñamarinos head to the beach after work and studies to play football and volleyball and take in the gorgeous sunsets. Along the promenade, there is a market where one can buy artisan goods and souvenirs, including alpaca woolens which are a bonus as Chilean homes do not have central heating! Alongside, there are stalls selling fresh juice, churros and empanadas.
Empanadas are a staple for Chileans and a popular snack or ‘once’ (meal taken by Chileans at around 11am). Although they are sold in shopping malls and in bakeries, the most popular place to buy them is from little stalls or newsagents. The stalls and newsagents have mini portable ovens which they use to cook the empanadas and they are very inexpensive, charging $1000 CLP (£1/$1.55 USD). They are available both baked and fried with baked being more popular most likely due to health reasons. Popular fillings include, Pino (mince with boiled egg and olives), Napolitana (Tomato, Mozzarella and tomato sauce) and Pollo con Queso (Chicken with cheese).
¡Hasta luego de Chile!
Hugh's Voyages and Discoveries 